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  Nanga Parbat

  We are 6 enthusiastic male and female mountaineers from Austria and Germany. An eclectic mix, ranging from biology student to paramedic. We’ve become acquainted on various expeditions over recent years. Out shared aim for the summer of 2008 was the 8125 m high Nanga Parbat. The “Naked Mountain” as the locals call the mountain of superlatives. The western-most 8000 m peak, the highest free-standing elevation. Its faces are the two highest walls in the world – the 4500 m high Rupal face in the south and the 4000 m high Diarmir face in the west. “Killer Mountain”, “Fateful Mountain of the Germans”, more difficult and dangerous that K2, leading the fatality statistics, and therefore well down in the conquering stakes. Everything’s right and yet everything’s not quite right. The high death rate on this mountain comes from the early German climbing attempts in the 30s, when fatalities were simply a part of conquering a peak in the Himalayas. Over recent years and decades, Nanga Parbat has been climbed around 200 times by various routes, and repeatedly made alpine history. There are still frequent deaths on Nanga Parbat, but the rate of fatality is now no more than on the other 8000 m peaks.

  Each of us had different reasons for wanting to climb Nanga Parbat. Something we shared was the joy of this adventure and the enthusiasm for the challenge. We aimed to attempt the Kinshofer route on the Diarmir face. A stunning, direct line, leading 4000 m up in the steep ice, rock and snow to the peak. As always, we decided to do without bottled oxygen and porters.